Rotating Triangles Construction Instructions
End Result – 16 triangles, the largest of which will have an outside dimension of 55.5” per side
1. Check the outside edges of the triangle – are they all exactly the same? If not, mark and trim to have all sides be the same length
2. Trim off the excess wood with the band saw to the exact edge
3. Find the exact centerpoint of each side and mark with a magic marker - don’t just take the center of the brazing line (which may not be accurate)
4. Using the long ruler, connect each side’s centerpoint to the opposing vertex, then draw a line from the vertex to the center
5. Mark these lines every 2” to indicate the corners – be very precise – use the metal ruler - there should be 15 points to make 16 triangles
6. Use an awl point on each corner – press very gently – we want to create a tiny hole that will catch the drill bit – we do not want to deform the copper/wood
7. Using the smallest drill bit (3/64”) with Dremel – drill holes in all corners – use a piece of cardboard next to the hole to protect the copper finish
8. Now take the long ruler, connect two of the holes for a side and mark the sides of each triangle – use a thin magic marker
9. Cut on Scroll Saw – use the #5 blades – for long sections, cut 22” from each direction then finish off with the ‘past the post’ technique
10. Repair all voids with wood filler
11. Repair all lifted sections with glue
12. Sand and file as necessary – do not overdo the sanding
13. Primer on – use the gray automobile primer – okay to spray – spray it 2x – clean the fronts within 10 minutes of spraying – let dry overnight
14. Black spray – use the Krylon semi-flat
15. Rewax and buff
More Instructions follow: Rotating Triangles
Day One
Cut out 3 – 55.5/side triangles from one large sheet of copper.
Take one triangle, measure the midpoint of each side, and draw connecting lines to the opposing apices, using a thick black Sharpie marking pen
Set the triangle down flat on a flat array of bricks and, using the oxy-acetylene torch with a #5 tip, melt brass along those black lines
Put the bricks on end, lay the triangle on these and, using a rose-bud tip, flame the copper until it’s all pretty black, then wash it off and drip dry
Set the triangle back up on the bricks, sprinkle on a 50/50 blend of flux #31 and salt, apply salt heavily in other places, then reflame with the rosebud tip, wash off, dry
Redo until the patina is appealing
Scrub the back of the triangle with the scrubbee brush, and then walk on it until its reasonable flat. Wash and drip dry
Set the triangle on the melamine table and cover it with wet towels overnight – this helps the flux residue to come off
Take a 4’x8’ sheet of marine plywood and, using a scroll saw, cut out the backing wood for the triangles – cut as many as possible from the board
Mix up some epoxy, dilute with acetone or MEK, then pour and brush onto the backs of the boards as they lay on a flat surface. Let this set up for about an hour.
Mix up another batch of epoxy and add graphite to this – don’t thin. Apply with roller or brush to the backs of the wood triangles. Dry overnight.
Day Two
Examine the surface carefully for flux remnants and pry off with a plastic tool. Wash and towel dry.
Put the triangle on the vacuum table, apply a vacuum using the breather cloth and pound it as flat as possible
Remove from the vacuum table and pound it some more
Sand the back, solvent clean, then spray on primer – let it sit for 4 hours
Apply solvent based DAP to the primed backside of the triangle and the wood base – let it sit until it’s glossy appearing, but no longer wet
Using dowels and silicone paper, carefully place the triangle on the wood base, lining it up exactly, then carefully remove the silicone paper and dowels and press in place.
Place the copper/wood assembly on the vacuum table, apply vacuum while hammering – how to avoid puncturing the film?
Let the copper/wood assembly sit overnight
Day Three
Trim off all excess wood and rasp and sand the edges until finished
Measure off the midpoints of each side, then using a silver/white/gold marker, connect the midpoints to the opposite apices
Along these lines, measure off each distance (e.g. 2.5”, 3”, 2”)
Using an awl, press the point of the awl into the copper at each mark
Using a 1/16” drill with the Dremel, drill holes at each awl mark
Set the triangle up on the scroll saw and cut out each part
Using water-based DAP contact cement, repair the gluing of each piece, as necessary
Day Four
Cut three small triangles from the marine plywood – use the center piece as a guide for size - and glue them to the underside apices of the largest triangle using water-based DAP. Clamp for several hours before finishing
Rasp and sand the inside and outside edges of each piece, using hand and power tools
File all four outside edges using a fine, single-cut file
Fill all holes as necessary, using exterior-grade wood filler, then resand
Prime the edges using an oil-based primer
Paint the edges black, using a low-glass black paint
Let dry overnight
Day Five
Using water-based DAP contact cement and 1-1/4” screws, assemble the pieces together
For the center piece, cut 3 – 6x1/4” strips of copper and drill holes through one end. Put a screw through all 3 pieces of copper and attach to the center underside of the smallest piece.
Fold the copper strips inside and lay the smallest piece on the next one. Position, then tape in place with package sealing tape.
Protecting the center piece with plastic, flip the whole assemblage over, position the copper strips where they won’t be seen from the front, then attach them securely with screws to the underside
Attach mirror hangers in the two highest corners. Attach 3 small bumpers to the back of the lowest corner.
Flip the piece back over to the front and do any touch-ups necessary to the edges.
Clean all black off the copper
Sign the piece with a gold marker pen, then spray the signature with some dry spray from the Krylon can – let it dry a few minutes
Carefully and thoroughly Krylon spray the whole piece – let it dry 3-4 hours in a warm place, preferably overnight.
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