Stainless Steel Guidelines

October 10, 2011
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Working with Stainless Steel

Stainless Steel Guidelines

Stainless Steel Guidelines

  1. Keep everything steel away from the stainless steel, including
    • all steel grinding media, steel tools, steel tables, steel brushes, drills, etc
    • all sparks and dust from grinding steel – keep the stainless isolated from steel sparks & dust
    • A stainless steel sculpture can pick up iron particles from the forks on a forklift or steel banding or a steel roller and show rusted areas later.
  2. how to remove the white plastic protecting the finish from the stainless steel
    • roll it up with a dowel, adding heat with a heat gun
    • for small pieces, warm water works great
  3. Cut with laser, water jet, plasma – not the band saw, it will ruin your blade
  4. you can drill it, but use drilling fluid and keep the drill bit from smoking

Welding Stainless Steel

  1. Welding Gas for Mig welding
    • Many people use straight Argon, but this can cause globular transfer
    • My favorite is Star 44 (Praxair) this is 1% CO2, 8% He and 71% Ar
    • Be sure to keep CO2 less than 2%
    • C25 (25% CO2 will cause rust formation after being outside for a while – the high carbon content tends to cause carbide precipitation
    Weldreality.com recommends 2% CO2, 98% Argon but this is hard to find here in Southwestern Michigan
  2. Use 100% Argon for Tig welding – generally, my practice is to do initial joins with Mig, repair any defects with Tig
  3. MIG and TIG Wire – use 308L or 308Lsi for 304 and 201 SS
    • Use 316L wire for 316 stainless steel
  4. Rapidly cool stainless steel through the 1600F – 800F range to avoid chromium carbide precipitation
    • I use spray bottles and wet paper towels
  5. For stainless steel vertical welds, consider pulsed
  6. Use manual pulse/puddle-freeze technique when welding – don’t overheat! Manually on-off, on-off

Stainless Steel - Grinding  & Finishing

  1. Grinding – use 3M’s 982C Cubitron ll - this stuff if amazing. I buy it from Enco #337-1083
    • it makes grinding stainless steel as easy as grinding steel.
  2. Don’t overheat when grinding!
    • Blue color indicates overheating and a thin oxide layer
    • use a variable speed grinder and drop the speed
    • Underneath the blue is a chromium depleted layer which can allow rust to form
    • Grind it clean – don’t overheat this time – or remove the blue chemically – see your Welding Supplier
  3. Stainless steel cleaning and rust removal
    • Sculpture friend says 1/3 muriatic acid + 2/3 water – I am skeptical – keep that chloride ion away from the iron!
    • Why not use phosphoric acid aka Naval Jelly? H3PO4
    • Oxalic acid with nitric might be good – that’s what I use to clean copper
    • Internet says use a blend of nitric and fluoric acids to clean, then rinse – I’m skeptical – hydrofluoric acid is very dangerous, if it gets on your skin it will eat right through – you can’t wash it off – causes nerve damage

Stainless Steel Types & Pricing

  1. Metal choice – Use 304L or 201L for most sculpture applications
    • L means low carbon, less than .04% – low carbon means less chance of carbide precipitation
    • 304 is 8% nickel – nickel is very high priced these days
    • 201 is 4.5% nickel, 7% manganese 16.3% chromium – looks and behaves the same as 304 but slightly stiffer
    • 201 is about 20% less expensive than 304
    • 316L is more for the harshest environments, right next to the ocean, in the salt water even
    • 18-8 stainless steel means 18% chromium, 8% nickel – generally, this is a 304 alloy
    • 2B finish is a brushed finish – #4 is a mirror finish
  2. Stainless steel prices in February 2011 from Alro Steel, Niles, MI:
    • 316-2B, 16 ga, 4×8 = $303 each and 81 lbs
    • 316L-2B, 16 ga, 4×8 $330 each and 81 lbs
    • 304L-2B, 16 ga, 4×8 = $260 each and 81 lbs
    • 201L-2B, 16 ga, 4×8 = $201 each and 81 lbs and 81 lbs
    • 201L-2B, 18 ga, 4×8 = $170 each
  3. 5052-H32 aluminum – have to use 1/8″ to get same strength = $120 and 56 lb.
  4. Stainless steel bends so nicely compared to unannealed 5052 aluminum – a real joy to shape. However, it is floppy – can’t use it for ribbon sculptures unless you get up to 1/2″ thick or so.

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Hope this is useful information for you! If you like it, please click & share. Love to read your comments about your stainless steel experiences.

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